A small fisher-village on my way from Hoi An to Saigon. It’s the response of the last years tourism that there are a lot of resorts, restaurants and bars now. And the construction sites won´t stop. Nevertheless, there is some charm left in this town. A lot of fishing boat lying in the harbour and many nut-shell-boats are in a row along the beach. Almost big enough for two fisher and a few nets. The motor of the ship, made from plaited palm leaves is just one paddle. They use a fascinating technique to move forward.
The traditional fishing has a lot oadvantages for the tourists. Short after sunset, a lot of small street-food restaurants open along the beachroad. In front of them are the aquariums from which the living seashells, crabs, lobster, turtles, frogs and fishes trying to escape. You can choose your preference and they immediately start cooking. Right next to the seafood, an alligator get´s roasted on a skewer. For germans, it looks like an “exotic Spanferkel” (piglet on a skewer), but it is standard food for the Vietnamese.
Blue heaven and a smooth, salty breeze is welcoming the next day. The first kitesurfers occupied the water and as soon as the wind is strong enough, many kites pursuit the absolute chaos in a way of a beautiful dance. This is one of the most tricky spots I´ve ever been surfing to, but if you finally get used to the waves and the wind, it´s one of the windiest and biggest spots worldwide. The international kitescene meets here and they sometimes stay for more than just a few month! You easily get connected to them and start conversations about new tricks, the wind and the kiteboards, which got lost in the big waves.
As endless as the kiters ride their kites up and down the wind, as endless is the road at the coast, which you´ll find if you leave Phan Tiet in southern direction. Using the Motobike is the best way to discover this lonely road and you quickly get a feeling that this is not such a touristic place like Mui Ne. People are friendly waving, smiling and everything looks trapped in it´s own micro-cosmos. A life, which starts every day at it´s beginning. Children, playing near the street, young guys, taking care of the cattle, the old man, sitting in his wooden chair – his face is telling a living story.
The road leads to the biggest and oldest lighthouse of Vietnam. Situated on an island, the warning for ships to avoid the rocky coast. A man on the roadside spotted us and is immediately starting to pursue. After a few hundred meters, he is nearby and gives us a sign to follow him. He takes us to a little restaurant, the menus are Vietnamese there and the visitors locals. We were served drinks and food and get a ship suggested which should bring us to the lighthouse.
Close to our table, the duck get´s plucked. Maybe, they expect us for dinner.
High on the tower, the sparkling sea, the rocks and the Vietnamese coast below, the sun finishes it´s circle and paints the country, the sea and the heaven into nice and warm watercolours. Every single one an effigy for the hopes and dreams of the people far away from the big city’s, searching for a place in the world between history and modernity, culture and business, curiosity and longings.